=-[The Cottage Clock-Cutting the Fretwork

On this page we start cutting out the fretwork.  This is really the easy part; just think of it as one hole after another until you're done.  First a few disclaimers:

• You may notice that the board looks a little different on the previous page. Yep, I messed it up.  I'm not used to cutting red oak; the drill bit decided to wander a bit--1/4" in one place. Of course it wandered in a direction I couldn't really compensate for by widening the fret hole. Like all the way across the outside line of the pattern! I went and cut another couple of blanks (thankfully I had enough board left) and this time drilled the entry holes further away from the cut lines.  Some folks recommend putting the holes close to the cut lines to save time.  With wood with hard/soft grain (like red oak!) I feel it's safer to move closer to the center.  It takes less than a second to cut to the line, and a wandering hole won't ruin your day.
• I don't claim to be a great scroller.  I'm still working on following the lines better, so please don't laugh too loudly at my cuts!
• Some of the photos aren't as clear as I'd like.  I'm using a Nikon 4500 wedges between the light, the saw and the fretwork.  The depth of focus is not long enough, nor is it correctly aimed (note the leaning blades in some of the pictures!).  I hope to improve as I go on.  Work in Progress!
  
• Finally, the techniques I use are how I've learned to cut, taking advantage of my own failings while compensating for my particular saw.  If you have a better way, go for it! I'm still learning here, and will continue to modify my own technique.  There is no one right way to cut.

Now, for the play-by-play!

The first hole I'll describe is teardrop-shaped.  This is one of the easiest to cut on this pattern.   First thread the blade through the entry hole and tighten up the blade.  If the hole is not perpendicular, the blade may be bent after tightening.  If so, be careful; when you turn the saw on, it will straighten up suddenly, possibly cutting where you don't want it to before you can stop it.  If I have any doubt, I make sure the blade is pointing towards waste.  If the hole is angling across the line, there's not much you can do.  Try to adjust the fret hole so it expands past the cut while still "looking good".  There's a good chance no one will notice but you anyway!
	Next, I cut towards a sharp corner, in this case the tip of the teardrop.  The goal is a sharp angle, so cut to the corner and stop.  Especially in thicker woods (or if the blade is not tight enough) the middle of the blade may be slightly behind the top.  To compensate I pause about a second for the middle to catch up.
Backing up back to the entry hole, I rotate the blank and put the back of the blade into the corner we just cut to.  Try never to rotate the blade with the back of the blade rubbing against a fretwork edge you intend to keep.  If if saw is on, it will tend to put a small, but noticeable burn mark on the edge.
	The next step is a little tricky and takes some practice.  What we want to do is to get the blade to guide off the already cut hole and start to engage the uncut portion, but along the pattern line. I keep a small amount of pressure on the non-waste portion; it has to be enough to guide the blade, but not enough where it will bow or cut into the non-waste.  Keeping good control, let the blade start to bite into the uncut wood, giving it enough pressure to bite in instead of going back to the entry hole. Once it starts to bite, it will stop trying to follow the old kerf.  The goal is to make a straight line without any nub where the new cut starts.  If you do get a nub, you can use the blade to scrape it off.  This takes good control to prevent the blade from actually cutting into the wood you're trying to keep.  For most blades I've used it is easier to use the right side of the blade ; however, I've had some where the left side is easier.
Now's the easy part of the cut--just follow the line.  I really don't have any good advice here, as I am still learning.  Some advice I've come across: Use one finger to pivot and the other hand to rotate the blank The blade will tend to cut at an angle; stand so you're facing the way the blade will cut straight. Don't let the blade stay in one place with the saw on-this can cause burning. Some people prefer clockwise cutting, others counter-clockwise.  I don't have a preference; there are too many other things that determine which way I cut.
	Continue cutting along the line until you reach the teardrop tip.  As you approach the tip, add some pressure to the non-waste side to keep the blade from jumping into the kerf.  This should not be much pressure--too much and you bow the blade again!  I slow down and sneak up to the end of the cut.  You should end up with a nice clean hole and clean-cut waste. We're done with the hole!

Starting with the next page we'll cut out that spiral cut right next to the teardrop.

Page 2    Page 4

• Cottage Clock
  • Introduction
  • Cutting the blank for the crest
  • Cutting a teardrop hole
  • Cutting a spiral hole (Part 1) (Part 2) (Part 3)
  • A hole with points (Part 1) (Part 2) (Part 3)
  • Small triangular holes (Part 1) (Part 2)
  • A more complex hole (Part 1) (Part 2)
  • Cutting the crest's outside (Part 1) (Part 2) (Part 3) (Part 4)

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