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Again, thread the blade through the entry hole, tighten
it up, and stand at an an angle to the saw so that the blade will appear
to cut straight. |
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Like before, cut to the line; be sure the angle is
small enough you can turn the blade onto the line without having to twist
the blade and burn the wood.
For a spiral I like to cut out the part with the
thin neck first. This keeps the wood intact for as long as
possible. This way by the time the peninsula has to support itself,
it is done being cut and doesn't have to bear any more strain from the
blade.
In reality, this piece is big enough where you
really don't have to worry about it; old habits die hard though... |
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Finish the first cut all the way to the point of the
spiral. Then back the blade back to the entry hole, turn the blank
180 degrees and back the blade into the point. |
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Like the teardrop, ease the blade into the uncut wood,
keeping just enough side pressure to prevent the blade from slipping into
the old kerf. Then cut out the inside of the spiral.
I still need work getting smooth cuts; spirals seem
to emphasize this, as you find yourself cutting long tight curves with a
constantly increasing or decreasing radius. Practice is supposed to
make perfect, so I guess I need to cut out a few million more of them... |
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Keep cutting the inside until you make to the other end
of the spiral. If you ran off the edge, you can go back and use the
blade to scrape off the offending area. If it's somewhat smooth, I
usually don't bother; sometimes trying to fix it makes it look even
worse. If you make enough mistakes, soon you lose track of them and
forget about them :-). |
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