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I start by selecting a board. To reduce tear-out
from the planer, I try to find a board where the grain doesn't change
direction. If there is a knot, I'll almost always have tear-out when
I try to plane it.
For the boxes I need a blank around 22"
long. This includes some waste at the end, allowing me a little slop
while cutting. This board has some checking on the end. I
might get lucky and have it not matter; however, my luck tends toward the
Murphy's Law side, so I measure 22" from the end of the checks.
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I mark the board, and then cut it with the circular
saw... |
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...and then run it through the planer. I take
light passes on one side to get a good flat surface and then flip it over
to make the other side parallel. I know your supposed to use a
jointer to get the first flat side, but I'm a little skittish around
fast-moving blades and don't like to get my hands over the jointer blade
even with push blocks. Besides, this method works well for me
for these short pieces.
When planing I try to keep a little up-pressure on
the board when inserting the board and again when it comes out the other
side. Doing this I can usually get little or no snipe from the
DeWalt planer. Don't put too much pressure; I've had the blades
catch an inch into the board and dig out a gouge there! It's also
not too kind to the planer, and these finishing planers aren't built for
much abuse.
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Taking the board to the jointer, I get a good
right angle on one of the edges. I'll adjust it for a decent bite
(1/32" to 1/16") if the edge is really uneven; otherwise I take
smaller cuts (1/32" to 1/64") per pass. The final pass
I'll slow down to get a smooth edge with little ripple. |
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I then use the tablesaw to get a parallel edge.
I'll set the blade just high enough to clear the wood. It may not
clear the dust as good as raising the blade to the gullet, but I feel
safer with a low blade. I don't use the guard--most of the time I'm
re-sawing wood; it is also clumsy so I feel safer with it not on the
saw. I keep away from the blade and kick-back path and use
push-sticks. I also ensure that if something slips, I slip away
from the blade, never towards it. If I feel a little careless, I
just look at the nicks on the push-sticks--that sobers you up real quick!)
The fence is set so that when the board is ripped, I
get a straight edge. I edge on side of more-wood...
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...as I can use the jointer to ease up to a final
edge. This gives me the most usable width. On this board this
gave me an additional two boxes. |
