Wooden Box with Sliding Lid

Machining the Blanks--The Rabbits

Now that we have 8 blanks, the next step is to machine the rabbit for the bottom and dado for the lid.

A lot of the time is setting up the tablesaw.  I raise the blade to about 1/8", using scraps of Baltic birch plywood as a guide.  Since the plywood I use in the box is perpendicular to the sides, this depth is just a convenient measure and not related to the thickness of the top/bottom. 

 I then adjust the rip fence so that edge of the blade is right at the edge of the blank.  I use a thin kerf blade, so we'll need to make two passes for the rabbit and the dado.

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After the fence is adjusted I add a featherboard.  I also clamp a board (yep, that's mahogany--it was convenient) to the fence so the blank is held to the table.  This helps me keep the depth of the rabbit/dado constant.  I use a second blank behind the blade to adjust the height of the clamped board.

In the foreground are my two push sticks. I tend to be pretty chicken, so I use these sticks for just about everything against the rip fence.

Before making the first cut, we need to decide which side will be the outside and which edge the top.  The idea is use the best side and edge.  Sometimes we'll need to pick one or the other--a good side trumps a good edge.  I arrange the piles so that they're oriented correctly.  It's pretty easy to get mixed up when you're doing 8 at a time.

Once I've arranged the blanks, I start the first cut on the rabbits. 

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Here's the first cut.  I didn't have the blade quite right and left some strings.  These will disappear when we sand the boxes, so I don't worry about them.  After a blank goes through the saw, I keep the orientation in the new pile.  

Eight times through the saw, and we've finished the first cut.

Since the blade is not quite thick enough,  I move the fence about 1/32" closer.  The featherboard is usually not too tight, so it doesn't need adjustment.  If the top board is not holding the blanks down well, I'll give it a light tap with a push stick.  You don't want either to be so tight that the board doesn't smoothly go through the saw.

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p04i13.jpg (203298 bytes) I make a second pass with one of the blanks and check to see that the Baltic birch will fit.  If it does, I finish the rest of the blanks.

The rabbits are done.  We'll do the dados on the next page.

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