Box with Sliding Lid

Cutting the Top and Bottom

We're almost done cutting out the box.  The last two pieces are the top and the bottom.  Since both the dado and the rabbit are the same depth, we can use the same setup for both top and bottom.  For the top/bottom I use 1/8" Baltic birch. Since this is a 3-ply plywood, we need to be concerned about the correct orientation of the grain. It should be parallel to the long side.  I made a set with the grain parallel to the short side; it curled up enough that it was unusable.  

As you can see, I use 6-3/8" for the length.  I got this from dry-fitting a set of sides and measuring the length.  I then cut a trial piece and adjusted the fence to be sure.  I ripped the plywood against the fence; with both hands holding the plywood, there was no hand left to hold the camera.  You'll just have to take my word!

I took a full sheet of plywood and cut it into a 2'x5' slice and a 3'x5' slice.  I used the rip fence set at 24".  It's hard for me to get a straight cut, so I'll either take off another thin slice from the cut side or just not use it as a straight cut for measuring.

After adjusting the fence for the length of the top/bottom, I rip the plywood to get 2 or 3 6-3/8" slices approx. 2' long.  

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The top/bottoms are 3-3/8" wide.  To speed these cuts I clamp a spacer to the fence.  This is a board that I planed to exactly 1/2" thick.  That way all I need to do is add 1/2" to the rip measurement.  I can now use the mitre gauge without as much chance of a kickback.  With only 1/2" between wood and fence it's still possible, so be sure to keep your guard up.  Although sometimes I'll use a push stick to get the cut piece out, I think it's safest to wait until the blade stops before removing it.  A few pieces with saw-marks bouncing around the room reinforces that idea!
I make a trial cut with one board.  I then check to see it fits both the top and bottom.  Since the bottom is not in view, I'm not as picky about the fit (I don't claim to be a master woodworker!) .  It's more important that the mitre cuts close  up tightly with the top in place.

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Assuming everything fits, I  cut the rest of the pieces (16 for the 8 boxes).  To save time I'll stack the plywood slices and cut 2 or 3 at a pass.

I raise the blade a little higher than the gullet for these.  With the blade coming down at a sharper angle, the cuts are clean and there tends to be less kick back at the rear.

At some point the pieces need to be sanded.  The best time to do this is before you cut the tops/bottoms.  I remembered about half-way through.  Trust me, it's quicker to sand the large pieces than the smaller ones.  You will still need to sand the edges after the cuts, but this can be done at the end.  If the dados are a little tight you'll need to sand down the edges to get a smooth slide anyway. 

After all the pieces are cut I stack and put them away for the assembly.

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We're almost done with the cutting.  One last little cut with a bandsaw, and its assembly time.  See you on the next page!

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